Too long... BUT...!!

It has been waaaaaaay too long since my last post, but oh well, here we all are...

In the last few months we have had some mediocre waves, warming water, and the beginning of daylight saving.

STOKED!!! Summer is definitely coming. Im hoping for the occasional southern ocean storm to push some little peelers onto NZ!

Mr Ray Finlay has finally received my blank... and shaped my log. Pics Below :-D

Glass will be....

Volane, with one brown comp stripe, then one blue comp stripe with a arrow tracing toward the nose on the bottom!

RADTACULAR!!!

Very average...

Not really anything worthy of blogging at the moment... still patiently waiting for these Fricken aussies to ship my blank to Ray... once that happens, the log can start.

Which is good...

Because...

Doris has sprung some serious leaks. Pretty sure she has 50 years of shitty brittle repairs... everytime i have to swim, and she ends up on the beach... i pick her up minus a chunk. They arent dings... they are chunks of resin or glass just popping off... or splitting... urgh.

Doris now has a face tagged on her... and is drying out before some Suncure action.

The new log is keenly awaited!

On a positive note... Devendra SHREDS!!!

Devendra Banhart - Learning to Shred.

Not much...

... happening in the way of waves... had a wee session at Titahi with Jacob last saturday, was fun, but a bit mushy... the Simmons handles the conditions well... but i really want to get it into some waves with a bit more punch... it goes so well when the waves are steep!

Purchased tickets to see Eru Dangerspiel yesterday... basically a supergroup playing some mean Funk/Dub/Rock kinda stuff... cant wait!

Eru Dangerspiel - Auckland Town Hall

Once again...

Scored waves outside the club rooms last night... solo... waist high, high tide speed runs on Doris :-)

One particular wave i took off, swung her round, set the line and switched to parallel stance. Squatted down and FLEW down the line... got smashed in the same shore dump as the night before and came up grinning :-)

I could see the wall firing... but i could also see about 30 people sitting on the peak! No thanks... ill take solo waves any day!

Rapper tomorrow :-)

Shakatak!

This. Is. GOLD!!!!!


How many type of SHAKA!!!!

High tide lumps to beach side dumps!

Had a pretty fun little logging session last night after work... it seems to be getting lighter in the evening in 15 minute increments... summer is definitely coming!

My first wave was a dream.... gentle paddle in, no hurry, quick pop with a little bit of a faded bottom turn, set the line and move forward just a touch to get Doris into trim... then ride all the way to the beach... and i mean all the way!! As i got closer to the beach the wave continued to peel beautifully and form up... so i continued to ride...  closer and closer and closer to the beach... until i end up standing on my board, on the wave, with the water sucking off the beach, leaving DRY SAND BELOW ME!!!

Do i panic... no... i simply leap gracefully off my board onto dry sand, and jog up the beach as Doris gets washed up behind me... grab her, run back into the water and im out the back giggling to myself like a manic in about 30 seconds!!!!

Best. Wave. In. Ages!

That is all.

(Hopefully the blank arrives soon!)

(Below is what the waves looked like, except it was a right... and about waist high!)

Alas...

The blank isnt here yet, so progress on the new piggie/log is yet to begin.

On a brighter note, im hatching a plan with some mates to visit this place mid next year.

Chrissy Island, Kiribati...

Exciting stuff...

Surf this saturday, Rapper, Sick.