My first wave was a dream.... gentle paddle in, no hurry, quick pop with a little bit of a faded bottom turn, set the line and move forward just a touch to get Doris into trim... then ride all the way to the beach... and i mean all the way!! As i got closer to the beach the wave continued to peel beautifully and form up... so i continued to ride... closer and closer and closer to the beach... until i end up standing on my board, on the wave, with the water sucking off the beach, leaving DRY SAND BELOW ME!!!
Do i panic... no... i simply leap gracefully off my board onto dry sand, and jog up the beach as Doris gets washed up behind me... grab her, run back into the water and im out the back giggling to myself like a manic in about 30 seconds!!!!
Best. Wave. In. Ages!
That is all.
(Hopefully the blank arrives soon!)
(Below is what the waves looked like, except it was a right... and about waist high!)
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