Too long... BUT...!!

It has been waaaaaaay too long since my last post, but oh well, here we all are...

In the last few months we have had some mediocre waves, warming water, and the beginning of daylight saving.

STOKED!!! Summer is definitely coming. Im hoping for the occasional southern ocean storm to push some little peelers onto NZ!

Mr Ray Finlay has finally received my blank... and shaped my log. Pics Below :-D

Glass will be....

Volane, with one brown comp stripe, then one blue comp stripe with a arrow tracing toward the nose on the bottom!

RADTACULAR!!!

Very average...

Not really anything worthy of blogging at the moment... still patiently waiting for these Fricken aussies to ship my blank to Ray... once that happens, the log can start.

Which is good...

Because...

Doris has sprung some serious leaks. Pretty sure she has 50 years of shitty brittle repairs... everytime i have to swim, and she ends up on the beach... i pick her up minus a chunk. They arent dings... they are chunks of resin or glass just popping off... or splitting... urgh.

Doris now has a face tagged on her... and is drying out before some Suncure action.

The new log is keenly awaited!

On a positive note... Devendra SHREDS!!!

Devendra Banhart - Learning to Shred.

Not much...

... happening in the way of waves... had a wee session at Titahi with Jacob last saturday, was fun, but a bit mushy... the Simmons handles the conditions well... but i really want to get it into some waves with a bit more punch... it goes so well when the waves are steep!

Purchased tickets to see Eru Dangerspiel yesterday... basically a supergroup playing some mean Funk/Dub/Rock kinda stuff... cant wait!

Eru Dangerspiel - Auckland Town Hall

Once again...

Scored waves outside the club rooms last night... solo... waist high, high tide speed runs on Doris :-)

One particular wave i took off, swung her round, set the line and switched to parallel stance. Squatted down and FLEW down the line... got smashed in the same shore dump as the night before and came up grinning :-)

I could see the wall firing... but i could also see about 30 people sitting on the peak! No thanks... ill take solo waves any day!

Rapper tomorrow :-)

Shakatak!

This. Is. GOLD!!!!!


How many type of SHAKA!!!!

High tide lumps to beach side dumps!

Had a pretty fun little logging session last night after work... it seems to be getting lighter in the evening in 15 minute increments... summer is definitely coming!

My first wave was a dream.... gentle paddle in, no hurry, quick pop with a little bit of a faded bottom turn, set the line and move forward just a touch to get Doris into trim... then ride all the way to the beach... and i mean all the way!! As i got closer to the beach the wave continued to peel beautifully and form up... so i continued to ride...  closer and closer and closer to the beach... until i end up standing on my board, on the wave, with the water sucking off the beach, leaving DRY SAND BELOW ME!!!

Do i panic... no... i simply leap gracefully off my board onto dry sand, and jog up the beach as Doris gets washed up behind me... grab her, run back into the water and im out the back giggling to myself like a manic in about 30 seconds!!!!

Best. Wave. In. Ages!

That is all.

(Hopefully the blank arrives soon!)

(Below is what the waves looked like, except it was a right... and about waist high!)

Alas...

The blank isnt here yet, so progress on the new piggie/log is yet to begin.

On a brighter note, im hatching a plan with some mates to visit this place mid next year.

Chrissy Island, Kiribati...

Exciting stuff...

Surf this saturday, Rapper, Sick.

Tilt shift is rad...

Had a play with the tiltshift tool on the internet... did this to my photo from lake ferry...

Pretty fun results...

Would love to do something like this with a decent lineup photo.

Drawing a blank...

The blank was due to arrive on the ship yesterday! I am anxiously awaiting news of this chunk of magical plastic foam :-)

STAY TUNED!!!!!

Bali chargery...

Here are a few piccys i stole off my mate Ben Eves' Crackbook. He and i went to High School (College in NZ!) together, and surfed the bend at Lyall Bay many times during and after school. One of the OG Lyall Bay School Kids... now living and charging over in Indo.

This is from Early June at Uluwatu...

All i can say is... theres no way i would have been out!

Enjoi.

Heavenly choons from the north.

Feist - Secret Heart

An amazing live track from Feist...

Going to see Broken Social Scene this Saturday at the Bathhouse... wish she was playing with them this tour... but alas i think we miss out.

Regardless, enjoy :-)

Weekend waves!

The tail end of a big south swell ended up providing some fun waves for us nearby...

After getting up early and drinking a stupid amount of tea (which resulted in Jake bouncing off the walls, and both of us pissing at every possible stop) we got on the road.

There was a bit of a decision to make, with the wind sitting somewhere between a N and a NW... we needed to make a call...

First check at a certain river mouth revealed this:

So we could only imagine what little gems lay waiting further round the bay!

HOWEVER... further round, the wind was all wrong!! F%&ken NW wind!

These wee gems were a bit further round...

All a bit rocky and/or shallow :-(

On the mish to another secret spot we go... which was working :-)

Surfed our brains out for a solid 3 hours... only coming in when the hands went numb and the shoulders were screaming!!

On the low tide it was breaking nicely... but was super close to the rocks.

Logging potential?

Tyler Dub... amazing.

http://vimeo.com/13700584

Boards...

The sims at various stages...

Matts blue and orange trim machine...

My $20NZ Morning of the Earth gun... think i might give it to Ray...

Too long...

Its been too long between setting this blog up... and actually posting...

Had a sweet wee wave yesterday at a certain secret spot... jokes... it was Lyalls. Not too packed, and it was onshore, so it stayed pretty quiet. As usual... the Sims excelled in the conditions, although closeouts were all too frequent.

Hopefully should be a small logging wave tomorrow... Amy is coming for a paddle... we'll see how long she lasts without full winter rubber!!

Pics... inspiration for my new log... Double stringer blank arrives Aug-9th :-) Cmon Ray hook us!

p.s. thanks to Tyler and Almond... amazing boards :-)